In our last post, we discussed how to interpret the purity of karat gold and said that gold was always yellow in colour. But "hold on" we hear you say, I thought gold could be white too? Yes, absolutely true, but it would be the “gold alloy” combination that is white, not the “true gold” added into the alloy. That will always be yellow. Depending on what additional metals you add into the mix, and all kinds of other colors and textures start happening to what we think of as gold.

So, how do they make white gold? White gold—a favorite with many—is an alloy of gold and a ‘white’ metal, traditionally nickel, palladium or manganese. And as with yellow gold, the purity of white gold is noted in karats, using exactly the same system as described for yellow gold in our previous blog article "Good As Gold?".  Copper may be added for added malleability when the goldsmith needs to shape or form jewellery pieces by hand. Nickel alloys are very good for pins and other parts that will be worn by two metal surfaces rubbing together as it is very hard. Silver can also be added to the alloy portion of the white gold mixture, as can Zinc, which is considered a secondary bleaching agent.

White gold varies considerably in colour, which, now that we all understand how it is made, makes complete sense. The exact formulations for gold alloys are like old family recipes. They are top secret and rarely disclosed. Another reason why the expertise of your chosen goldsmith and jeweller is so important. They need to know just how each type of gold alloy will react to heat, touch, and wear. If some of the alloys added for malleability, for example, are reddish (as in the case when copper is added), then that will have an effect on the final “shade of white” of the final white gold alloy.

The last step on your way to becoming a white gold expert is understanding rhodium plating. "What plating" you ask? When white gold jewellery looks really super white and shiny, like it is made from platinum, then it is invariably coated with a material called rhodium. This metal is similar to platinum in its physical properties. And when it coats white gold, it looks like platinum. Underneath the coating, however, the ring, pendant or earring pair is still the whiteish-yellowish colour of the white gold mixture. So, when brides come into our wondering why their white gold engagement rings bought elsewhere are turning yellowish, then this is the answer. The rhodium plating is wearing off and exposing the true metal colour underneath. Unfortunately, other stores usually do not tell their clients that their white gold is plated as they are not required to disclose it by law. At Jewellery Artists 3D, we believe you deserve to know everything about what you are purchasing. Clients are always shown white gold samples with and without rhodium when they are ordering, so that they can make an informed decision about what suits their lifestyle and taste the best. Knowledge is power.

To answer that little question going around your head, yes, there are more colours of “gold” available beyond the white and yellow choices already discussed. But enough for today. The rest will follow at another time.