Way back in the ancient world, gold was the preferred metal for making jewellery. It was relatively rare, would not tarnish and best of all gold is relatively malleable. Therefore, it could be worked easily. Magnificent bracelets, pendants, necklaces, rings, armlets, earrings, diadems, head ornaments, pectoral ornaments, and collars were all produced using this natural metal.
Even in ancient Greece, beads shaped as natural forms like shells, flowers and beetles were manufactured on a large scale. Necklaces and earrings have been found in burial sites in Northern Greece. By 300 BC Greek artisans designed multi coloured jewellery and used emeralds, garnets, amethysts and pearls.
Etruscans in the Tuscany region of Italy produced granulated textured gold work. They made large fibulae or clasps, necklaces, bracelets and earrings as custom jewellery pieces. They also made pendants that were hollow and filled with perfume. There are some notable gold jewellery manufactures in Italy that still create high quality stylish trend making gold work today.
But then the sumptuary laws in 13th century Medieval Europe came into force and capped luxury in dress and in jewellery. Townspeople were not allowed to wear jewellery made of pearls, gemstones, gold, or silver. Similar laws existed in England. The fact that these laws forbade even yeomen and artisans from wearing gold and silver indicates how the status of jewellery and lavish dress had become widespread beyond just the nobility.
When Napoleon eventually emerged as emperor of France in 1804, he revived jewellery, and thus fashion evolved into a new court of pomp and ostentatious display. 'Joailiers' worked fine jewellery and 'bijoutiers' used less precious materials. The members of the new French imperial family had the former French royal family gems re-set in the latest neo-classical style. This is not much different than what individuals choose to do today, in Vancouver BC, when they have us re-set their grandmother's engagement diamond into a newer updated style that they will enjoy wearing (often complete with an extra splash of diamonds so they can put their own mark on it too!). These new trends in jewellery were copied in Europe and particularly England. Greek and Roman architecture were the main influence for designs, as famous discoveries of more ancient treasure had not yet happened. The diamond necklace shown here was commissioned by Napoleon I of France for his wife Marie Louise in 1811 in celebration of the birth of their son. Thanks to Cliff 1066 for a fabulous photo of this stunning display of diamonds! This necklace currently resides in the Smithsonian Institute.
When Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837, gold jewellery was romantic and nationalistic. It gave attention to the pressure of European folk art, which later influenced the Arts and Crafts Movement. Until mid century, most western jewellery came from Europe, but soon jewellery began to be made in North America.
At Jewellery Artists 3D, we specialize in personalized, custom made jewellery created with respect for the best of traditional techniques coupled together with an emphasis on high tech, CAD and laser aided manufacturing for our fine platinum and gold jewellery. Stay tuned for the second part of our series on the history of jewellery and jewellery making.
David Penner