While the world divides itself into ‘likes’ and ‘dislikes,’ about gold as the metal of choice for custom jewellery—we often see the division here at Jewellery Artists 3D—there’s no doubt that gold, precious and rare, sets a standard that just keeps on going and going.

We all know what gold looks like. Right? Well yes, but perhaps not.

Gold is bright, shiny and kind of yellowish correct? True. “Gold” is always yellow in its pure, natural form. When you see gold made into jewellery, the yellow colour varies. Why? Simply put, purity. And how do we determine the purity of gold?

Here’s how it works. The karat makings on metal are, by definition, a fraction. When you see 18K stamped inside a ring, the manufacturer is stating that the jewellery is 18 parts out 24 parts gold, or 18/24ths gold by content. The rest of the 24 parts, 6 in this case, can be a variety of metals. The specific metals used determine the malleability (“softness”), ductility (ability to conduct / transfer heat), colour and other characteristics of that specific blend of “gold”, or more technically correct “gold alloy”. Likewise, 14K (or Kt) is 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals.

So that means that we have various types of 18K gold made for different purposes. One alloy with a specific metal combination is optimized for casting, another type of 18K made for hand work, another type for stamping out pre-fabricated dyes, and so on. Each metal combination, or alloy, is proprietary to that particular metal producer, and also specific for certain purposes. So, if you are requesting a ring be made in 18K gold, for example, how do you know the jeweler has the knowledge to use the best mix of metals for your purpose and not just what happens to be what is most handy at the time?

Here's the first set of critical questions to consider... Ask for written guarantees for your finished jewellery piece, demand your jewelers have a track-record of manufacturing jewellery for many decades, sense their dedication to knowledge, and ensure a pioneering reputation and industry recognition for their talents. It's ok to be blunt. Ask what awards they have received or competitions they have won....won recently. Accolades do not count very much if they are a decade or two old! Be brazen. After all, you are depending on your jeweler to make the right decisions for you. The jewelers are secretly hoping you don’t know enough to ask these types of questions. So, next time you are in a jewellery store, ask them what type of 18K metal they use in their jewellery. See what they say..not to mention the shocked look on their faces…giggle giggle.