When Napoleon eventually emerged as emperor of France in 1804, he revived jewellery, and thus fashion evolved into a new court of pomp and ostentatious display. 'Joailiers' worked fine jewellery and 'bijoutiers' used less precious materials. The members of the new French imperial family had the former French royal family gems re-set in the latest neo-classical style. This is not much different than what individuals choose to do today, in Vancouver BC, when they have us re-set their grandmother's engagement diamond into a newer updated style that they will enjoy wearing (often complete with an extra splash of diamonds so they can put their own mark on it too!). These new trends in jewellery were copied in Europe and particularly England. Greek and Roman architecture were the main influence for designs, as famous discoveries of more ancient treasure had not yet happened. The diamond necklace shown here was commissioned by Napoleon I of France for his wife Marie Louise in 1811 in celebration of the birth of their son. Thanks to Cliff 1066 for a fabulous photo of this stunning display of diamonds! This necklace currently resides in the Smithsonian Institute.
Sapphires have a storied history. It is told that the tablets containing the Ten Commandments were composed of sapphire, so strong that a hammer swung against them would be smashed to pieces. The Persians believed that the earth rested on a giant sapphire, and its reflection colored the sky. Princess Diana received a sapphire engagement ring and the British Crown Jewels are full of large blue sapphires, the symbol of pure and wise rulers. Since the sapphire symbolizes sincerity and faithfulness, the jewel was an excellent choice for this ‘Story Ring’.
The groom’s ring was designed with themes of uniqueness and the unexpected. Square rather than round. Made of palladium, another pure precious metal, and finished with a hammered and sandblasted texture to contrast with the highly polished centre, which holds three diamonds. In elegant design and structure, a match for the groom’s personality.
In our last post, we discussed how to interpret the purity of karat gold and said that gold was always yellow in colour. But "hold on" we hear you say, I thought gold could be white too? Yes, absolutely true, but it would be the “gold alloy” combination that is white, not the “true gold” added into the alloy. That will always be yellow. Depending on what additional metals you add into the mix, and all kinds of other colors and textures start happening to what we think of as gold.
So, how do they make white gold? White gold—a favorite with many—is an alloy of gold and a ‘white’ metal, traditionally nickel, palladium or manganese. And as with yellow gold, the purity of white gold is noted in karats, using exactly the same system as described for yellow gold in our previous blog article "Good As Gold?". Copper may be added for added malleability when the goldsmith needs to shape or form jewellery pieces by hand. Nickel alloys are very good for pins and other parts that will be worn by two metal surfaces rubbing together as it is very hard. Silver can also be added to the alloy portion of the white gold mixture, as can Zinc, which is considered a secondary bleaching agent.
White gold varies considerably in colour, which, now that we all understand how it is made, makes complete sense. The exact formulations for gold alloys are like old family recipes. They are top secret and rarely disclosed. Another reason why the expertise of your chosen goldsmith and jeweller is so important. They need to know just how each type of gold alloy will react to heat, touch, and wear. If some of the alloys added for malleability, for example, are reddish (as in the case when copper is added), then that will have an effect on the final “shade of white” of the final white gold alloy.
The last step on your way to becoming a white gold expert is understanding rhodium plating. "What plating" you ask? When white gold jewellery looks really super white and shiny, like it is made from platinum, then it is invariably coated with a material called rhodium. This metal is similar to platinum in its physical properties. And when it coats white gold, it looks like platinum. Underneath the coating, however, the ring, pendant or earring pair is still the whiteish-yellowish colour of the white gold mixture. So, when brides come into our wondering why their white gold engagement rings bought elsewhere are turning yellowish, then this is the answer. The rhodium plating is wearing off and exposing the true metal colour underneath. Unfortunately, other stores usually do not tell their clients that their white gold is plated as they are not required to disclose it by law. At Jewellery Artists 3D, we believe you deserve to know everything about what you are purchasing. Clients are always shown white gold samples with and without rhodium when they are ordering, so that they can make an informed decision about what suits their lifestyle and taste the best. Knowledge is power.
To answer that little question going around your head, yes, there are more colours of “gold” available beyond the white and yellow choices already discussed. But enough for today. The rest will follow at another time.
“Wow. Sounds fun. Like a long walk and endless food at the same time? It doesn’t get any better than that, huh? Did everyone bite? So to speak?”
“Wish I’d been there Rottie. Maybe next year.”
